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The spider in it's simplest form wasn't quite as simple as I thought. The directions are pretty vague and assume you know how they define an open and solid mesh. I looked very closely at the photo to figure it out. It didn't help that they put the photo sideways. I did end up with something that looks pretty similar but I had to work backwards in some spots to figure it out. I tried to write it down but after re-reading what I wrote, I'm not sure it's entirely accurate. Here are the basics. Chain 32 and dc in 9th stitch from hook. An open mesh is a dc, skip 2, dc in next. A closed mesh puts dcs in the skipped stitches. At the beginnings of the rows I chained 5 and did a dc in the next dc. Let me know if you try this!   Scoring: Is the pattern easy to understand? This assumes some basic knowledge. Even with that knowledge this could be a little clearer. 0.5 Does it look like the photo? Yes. 1.0 Would someone use this? Yes. If done with more length this could be an insertion or other lacy type thing. 1.0 Did I enjoy making it? Mostly. I really had to blow up the photo to see it. 0.75 Score =3.25 For the next two weeks, I have very special Holiday posts featuring a 1980s crochet magazine dedicated to Christmas. I'll share the patterns that look ok and those that are, shall we say "interesting". After that I'll do the best and the worst patterns of the year before we move on to the mid 1900s.
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This week we'll take a quick look at "My Book No. G, The Antique Design or Spider. In many variations-Showing Yokes: Corners, Edges and Insertions". It's by Emma Farnes, published by E.C. Spuehler in 1910. This booklet is viewable on the Antique Pattern Library website. This is Book G in a series of 10 booklets. The Antique Pattern Library has several of the booklets available but not the entire series. This website links to a Catalog of Copywrite that says that Emma Farnes was a pseudonym for E.C. (Edwin Christopher) Spuehler.  The booklet is formatted with a sample of the finished pattern shown and the instructions in text near the sample.  These range from the simple versions above all the way to a few yoke patterns   For next week, I'll try the one at the top called, "In it's simplest form".
 I made this 1910 pattern for buttons in size 10 cotton thread and my trusty size 7 steel hook. I planned to make more than one because they're small and they looked easy. I only made one. The pattern needs to be adjusted for US standard so all dc stitches are single crochets and I used a half double crochet stitch for the short treble. The roll stitch aka the bullion stitch is described well even if it was the stitch that made me give up after the first button. I tried it with fewer yarn/thread overs and I just couldn't pull it off (or through) consistently with thread. I think their suggested thread is smaller and silkier than the thread I used. I'm not sure if that would make it easier or harder. I also had trouble following the repeats and it doesn't look quite right in my first attempt. To be fair, the ones they have in the photo don't look like they have a consistent picot pattern either.  My finished button is about 1.75 inches across. It's pretty soft so I don't think it could be substituted for an actual button. It seems more decorative.
Here's the rating: Is the pattern easy to understand? Mostly. The repeats could be better written.0.75 Does it look like the photo? Yes 1.0 Would someone use this? Maybe? 0.5 Did I enjoy making it? Eh... Not super fond of the bullion stitch with thread. I could have tried this with a heavier yarn and made a coaster. 0.5 Total 2.75 Next week it's spiders! There are eight patterns in the Crochet Designs booklet from the year 1904 through 1910. One of these might look familiar. I'll share them in order of publication. First, we have a yoke pattern from Weldon's Practical Needlework, Vol 19, no 224, 75th Series, (August 1904) is worked in No 36 size crochet cotton and uses a paper pattern that they want you to make and fit the strips to make the size you need.  There are two patterns from 1907. A pretty hair-pin lace shawl from Lady's World Fancy Work Book, no. 3 (Jan 1907). The pattern is pretty detailed on how to make a hair pin and attach the pieces together. The second is a "Crocheted Blouse for a Lady". It's from Weldon's Practical Needlework, Vol 22, no 257, 93rd Crochet series (May 1907). The model appears to be holding some kind of sports equipment and the pattern says that it is for "wearing at sports such as hockey, golf, etc". This pattern also requires knitting needles.
We have two patterns from 1909. The Wool Jacket is from Weldon's Practical Needlework, Vol 24, no 280, 109th Crochet Series (April 1909). The Ladies' Ribbed Crochet Tie is from Needlecraft Practical Journal, Vol 6, no 79 (1909) and should look familiar. I made it in March of 2023.
There are three patterns from 1910. The Star Stitch Camisole is from Weldon's Practical Needlework, Vol 25, no. 294, 119th Crochet Series (June 1910). It's hard to see the detail in the photo below but they do include a close up of the stitch in the pattern.  This belt is also from Weldon's Practical Needlework. This time it's Vol 25, No 300, 123rd Series (December 1910). It looks like a very simple pattern with only two rows.  I'll be attempting the Crochet Buttons for next week. This pattern is from Lady's World Fancy Work Book, no 16, (April 1910). The pattern uses DMC Coton Perle or Sylko No 16. Sylko was a thread made in the UK for sewing in this time frame. They must have made a heavier cotton for other purposes too. Coats uses the name Sylko now for embroidery thread used in manufacturing and it's all polyester. I may end up just using size 10 thread.  The pattern is in the photo. Let me know if you try it!
Time to finish up the Victorian era. have one more booklet that has a few early 1900 patterns and then I'll move on to later decades. The Crochet Designs Fashion & Accessories Reprinted from Victorian & Edwardian Sources was compiled by Gertrude Kuehl for the Knitting and Crochet Guild in London. This booklet was printed in 1990. It has 29 patterns from 1855-1917.  It has a hook comparison chart along with a Bell Gauge and a list of yarn categories to tell you what "modern" yarn could be used in place of the older description. The introduction goes through a little history and explanation of terminology. It says one of the things I've discovered over the last year, "Generally speaking 19th century crochet patterns provide either a fest or famine in written details." They go on to say that one of the reasons that Victorian and Edwardian patterns often didn't give you the hook size or gauge is so the would be more open-ended. Most people that did needlework then could draft clothing patterns and would use patterns and stitches to make a fabric that they would then create to fit their hand drafted pattern. They would put in their own increases and decreases to fit that pattern. The patterns were much more adaptable even if they seemed vague to us. I'll share the three from the Victorian era this week and then next week I'll move on to 1904-1910. This collar is from 1848. The index says its from The Crochet Book by Mdlle Riego de La Branchardiere, 4th ed,. London. This pattern uses the word "plain" in place of single crochet (I think).  This purse is from Treasures in Needlework, by Mrs. Warren and Mrs. Pullan, London, 1855  The last pattern from the Victorian era in this booklet is this wrap. It's from Mrs. Leach's Fancy Work Basket Vol. 12, no. 137 February 1897. It's described as useful for an invalid or an evening wrap. While this is a long and detailed pattern it does say that you can change the size by, "varying the number of stitches and rows".  Next week I'll share the eight patterns from 1904-1910 and tell which one I'll attempt to make. |
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